Perfect Threads

If you're obsessed with awesome wheels then you've noticed that spokes play an important role in their function and beauty. A big part of our love of the Morizumi Spoke Machine is its wonderful threading.

Perfection.

One of the machine's dedicated users sent a couple shots of fresh threads. Notice the uniformity. Few spoke factories maintain their equipment to product such fine threads.

Stainless spoke porn.

Notice in these views not only excellent and consistent threads. You can also see an important feature: the thread root (the valley between peaks) has a generous radius, not a sharp, V-shaped valley. A valley as sharp as one of the peaks would produce a stress riser. In spokes, threads are subjected to endless load cycles that take advantage of stress risers. That's why so many spokes break at the thread.

A perfect (and beautiful) spoke thread has a stress reducing valley. Morizumi makes just such wonderful threads and we were sure you wanted to see them.

For wheelbuilding nerds only.

Wheel Fanatyk's Tensiometer

We're proud to announce the Wheel Fanatyk Tensiometer. Based on an ingenious Jobst Brandt (author of The Bicycle Wheel) design, this tool is the non-plus ultra of tension gauges.

Inlaid, stainless, laser-etched nameplate.

FSA briefly made a version and it acquired an eclectic, worldwide following. It was discontinued several years ago and can no longer be found for sale. The Wheel Fanatyk tool upgrades the design in several crucial ways. To hear about the tool basics, in its FSA incarnation, check here.

How to hold it.

For 2012, we've incorporated much higher specification moving parts and a digital indicator. Parts are all USA made with tolerances and materials that enable a new level of accuracy. This is perhaps the World's most accurate. The digital gauge is feature laden:

1. Extra low spring force for high accuracy.
2. Shock, dust, and water resistant.
3. Large LCD screen.
4. Zero-set.
5. Inch/Metric Conversion.
6. On/Off button.
7. One year battery life (continuous operation).
8. SPC/RS232 output (downloads to a PC).
9. Resolution: 0.0005"/.01mm.

SPC/RS232 output is via a mini-USB port and requires a dedicated cable that will be available later this Spring.

Digital SPC output.

The instrument is fully calibrated on our in-house fixture using a precision Dillon force gauge. We provide tension conversion for all common spoke gauges and diameters.

Each tool wears a unique serial number.

There's no spoke tension gauge with this combination of accuracy, ease of use, durability, and value. Watch this movie describing its use and features.

The tool costs USD$295, and here is what you get:

1. A shock-proof, lockable, foam lined case with metal pin hinges.
2. 26 page Owner's Manual, with many wheelbuilding tips.
3. Laminated Spoke Tension Chart, for convenient conversion.
4. Spare battery.
5. A CD with PDF files of the manual and chart, and our instruction movie.

What's inside the case.

The warranty is one full year, but we aim to meet every user's highest expectations. Lifetime recalibration is no-charge. Satisfaction is guaranteed.

Check these images:

On a spoke.

Battery drawer is opposite mini-USB port.

Touching the "Zero" button.

You can buy it here.

Thanks for Your Support in 2011

Best wishes from Giovanni, Antonio, and Ugo - la famiglia di Ghisallo

Wheel Building Tip No. 14 - Set the Spoke Path

[Note: this is #14 of a series of 20]

You have undoubtedly noticed, and I mentioned in tip #4, that spokes do not exactly conform to their path once laced into a wheel. This is especially true at the hub. With higher quality hubs and spokes, the spoke elbow seems incomplete, resulting in a bowed shape before full tension is applied.

This bowing is, indeed, owed to incomplete elbows. Better spokes, those destined for high end builds, have short elbows and a more open angle like 105° rather than 90°. Better hubs also have smaller spoke hole diameter and thicker flanges. Consequently, the spoke can be laced through the hub but it doesn't fall down to the correct angle towards the rim. Why?

It turns out that bending a spoke after it has been laced maximizes contact with the hub and significantly increases fatigue life. Spokes that drop easily into holes and swing to correct angle without resistance end up with less support. At the same time, spokes on the inside of the non-drive rear hub flange do not need much elbow length or angle. You see, spoke positions in a pair of wheels vary as to exit angle.

For these non-drive side spokes, the incomplete elbow is a perfect fit. Were the elbow larger, it might become opened a bit as tension is applied, which reduces fatigue resistance. Since we're happy about these miss fits, because they extend spoke life, what technique is appropriate to make sure the fit is perfect?

Some builders favor hitting the spoke with a hammer, close to the elbow. I see three problems. One, there's no striking elbows on the flange inside surface and there's a chance some of those spokes could use straightening. Second, few hub makers design flanges to resist hammer blows. Spare those hubs! Third, hitting a wheel 16 or more times with a hammer is invitation for a miss. Leave hammers to carpenters.

The way to quickly and consistently bend incomplete elbows into perfect hub contact is a lever.

Better than a hammer.

Insert a round rod, like a big Phillips screwdriver blade, or handy piece of scrap steel, into the large triangle defined by the cross pattern. Angle your rod so it bends an outside and an inside elbow at the same time. It will be obvious which way to apply pressure.

Go around the wheel giving a forceful push to each elbow. If you push too hard, no worry. The spoke is not seriously harmed. Ease up. No need to struggle and unbend the over-corrected spoke. Do this setting procedure when the wheel is laced but still has low tension. Notice how loose the wheel becomes. The old school practice of letting tension do the elbow setting is inadequate because spoke metal needs an over correction, like any steel, so tension may appear to straighten the spoke but it still has a memory of its original shape. As you ride and tensions vary, your spoke will be returning to its shape, constant flexing, eventually leading to breakage.

I'm glad to know you won't be ignoring elbow shape and spoke path. These geometries are fundamental to wheel function and you need to be making optimal adjustments so your wheels are as perfect as they can be.